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Monday, November 19, 2018

Sofiona Designs: the Starry Night PJs and the Arctic Fox Housecoat PDF Pattern Review


My oldest daughter has been asking me for a housecoat for over a year now! I have a big white fluffy one that she has seen me wear, and she has wanted one just like it for her. So, naturally, both of my hands went up when I saw the testing call for the Arctic Fox Housecoat by Sofiona Designs. After I finished her housecoat, I even made her a new set of pajamas to go with it out of the Starry Night PJ Set from Sofiona. I am reviewing both patterns today for this post and talking about the new PDF sewing pattern company Sofiona Designs. 


The Arctic Fox Housecoat

The Arctic Fox has a hood, comes in 2 lengths, has patch pockets, and is finished with bias details on the facing and hood seams. The housecoat has a hook at the back to hang it and a belt with belt loops to keep it tied. The housecoat is very straightforward to sew and uses thick plush fabrics. Everything matched up perfectly, and the pattern has just the right amount of ease to fit comfortably and give room for growth. I hate it when my kids' grow out of something in 2 weeks! I think that Sofiona did a great job with the pattern!


I used the Sew Lush Fleece fabric from Joann, and it is so soft and furry. This was my first time sewing with Sew Lush fleece. Sew Lush fabric is a cross between minky and fur. You will find it everywhere and need to clean your entire sewing room when you finish. It is the first fabric that ever made me cry. No joke. I was finishing the facing at midnight and trying to keep it from shifting and holding my binding down. I just wanted it to cooperate! 

If you are a beginner, I would recommend using antipill fleece or something more stable first. Ripping stitches on Sew Lush felt impossible, and you are not going to iron it to steam out mistakes. I think this fabric was really humbling to me as a seamstress, and I wasn't entirely happy with how mine looked in the end. This sweet little girl didn't care, though, and squealed with delight when she saw her finished robe. She has since been wearing it every night and has repeatedly told me how excited she is that I finally made it for her!


The pocket cleverly is lined with quilting cotton. It is such a sweet touch! 


I made my own bias tape for this project. If you are in a hurry or don't want to make your own bias tape, you could just serge the facing and neckline seams and topstitch them down. 


Starry Night Pajamas

I did not test the Starry Night PJs but wanted to make one for my daughter to go with her robe. The PJ set comes with a nightgown option (short or long length) and a top and pants option. It has an optional ruffle between the bodice and skirt part of the top/dress. The bodice is lined and the rest of the armscye and the neckline is finished with binding. I absolutely loved how nice everything laid on this top! I have a similar top that is finished with bands, and the crisp point on the back never has laid right with bands. I think the lined bodice + binding finishings makes everything lay perfectly. She has already asked whether she can wear her top during the day too! I know that during the summer I will be making some of the tops for my daughters to wear as tanks. 


I love the gathering in the front and back on this top! It is so cute. She has worn this set so much since I have made it! 


I used cotton lycra for everything on the PJ set. The print came from Fabrictopia in Dallas, and the solid is from Made Whimsy

The pants have elastic in the waist that is turned under to conceal it. They were very quick and easy to make. They remind me of my favorite store-bought pj pants with just the right amount of ease for comfort. I tried the suggested elastic on her waist, and I added 1.5 inches to it to make it more comfortable for her. 


Sofiona Designs

Sofiona is a new pattern company that was started by Trisha Yanke and Sherri Herrera, two Canadian best friends who will be starting by offering girls patterns in the 2-14 size range. I hope that they venture into designing women's patterns as well because I am loving their creativity. They are amazing in their eye for details and their beautiful finishings. One of the best parts about Sofiona is that a portion of their earnings will be donated to A21 – a non-profit organization working towards eradicating human trafficking around the world. Isn't that great!?

The first four patterns they have released are the Starry Night PJs, the Arctic Fox Housecoat, the Raven, and the Railway Joggers. You can purchase the Starry Night PJs and Arctic Fox Housecoat as a bundle for a further discount. All patterns are 30% off until November 25th. You can join the Facebook fan group to keep up with Sofiona's upcoming releases and to show off your creations is here

Also, there is a giveaway starting now on Instagram that will be open for 24 hours! To be eligible, you must follow both the Sofiona Designs IG account and the Thread Count Fabrics IG account. Tag a friend in the comments on the Sofiona IG post. The winner will get a pattern for themselves and the friend that they tagged.

 
Thanks for reading!! You may follow me on Instagram or receive updates by liking my page on Facebook. If you want to take a look into the things that inspire me, you can follow me on Pinterest. You may also follow my blog with Bloglovin.

Disclosures: I received the patterns for free as part of testing so that I could give the designer feedback to make the pattern perfect for you. This post does not contain affiliate links!



Friday, November 16, 2018

Cold Weather Sewing with the P4P SOS Skinnies and PSD for Me + a M4M Hudson Hoodie for my Daughter

Today's post is a triple whammy. I have three patterns to talk to you about today - the newly updated Patterns for Pirates SOS Skinny Pants, my well-loved Patterns for Pirates Pumpkin Spice Dolman tops, and the newly released Hudson Hoodie from Made for Mermaids.


Let's start by talking about the newly updated SOS Pants. The SOS pants pattern is designed for knit fabric and gives you all the details of real jeans with the comfort of knit fabric. They are quick to make because the fly is faux - so there is no zipper installation or button to fuss with. SOS stands for "skinny or straight" because this pant comes in a skinny or straight leg version. I made two pairs during the update testing and love the fit of both. 


Adjustments

I think the adjustments part when I am cutting out a pattern takes so long for me because I am a shorty with large calves and a deep crotch curve, BUT it is always so worth it and means that I end up with pants that I will wear over and over again and feel good in.  

Shorty. I have a 27 inch inseam, which means that I took 3 inches in length of the 30 inch inseam length on the pattern. I loved that the knee line was marked so that I was not half hazardly guessing as to where to remove length. I never try to remove more than an inch at any given place too so that it is easier to smooth back in the lines after my adjustment is made. 

Calves. All my measurements put me right at an XS EXCEPT my calves. They measured as an XL. This makes so much sense to me because one of the most uncomfortable places for skinny pants and compressive leggings on me is at my calves. This is the part where I absolutely love sewing because it is so easy to just add the extra fabric I need there by grading to the size I need. In store bought clothes, if I buy a size that fits my calves, they are falling off of my butt so most skinny pants are out of the question for me. I absolutely loved that all the measurements I needed and markings on the pattern I needed were there. After grading out to an XL at the calves, I tried my pants on to see right where the thicker part of my calf ended and slowly graded back to my normal ankle size. 

Crotch curve. I learned so much about my crotch curve in testing and was so glad that I got to be part of the update. I learned that the deep crotch curve of one of the early version in testing was AMAZING for me, and the regular crotch curve that fit everyone else so nicely was not comfortable at all for me. I have noticed on some pants/shorts that I feel a wedgie all throughout the bottom of my crotch, not really on my butt like a normal wedgie though. If I sit for too long in pants, it hurts right in my privates! Sorry if that was TMI, but try googling how to fix that! SO, previously when making bottoms with this problem, I would just scoop out the crotch curve. However, when comparing the crotch curves on this pattern between the different testing versions, I realized it was so much more than just scooping! I also need to add width to the back pattern piece as it approaches the crotch. I hope this makes sense! If not, send me an email, and I can draw out what I mean.  

This first pair that I am showing you was made out of the final version of the pattern that had the crotch curve that was not my favorite. Thank God for 1/2 inch seam allowances because I was able to fix it by using the crotch curve that works for me and add room where I needed it. 


Fabric

I used this textured nylon/spandex from Simply By Ti for this pair. I can't get over how squishy and cool this fabric feels. It is thick and perfect for pants! It is so stretchy and has great recovery. I need all the colorways now. If you order some, order extra because it is not as wide as your traditional knit. I got 2 yards and had only a small amount left after finishing these pants. 


Aren't the details so fun on this fabric! I found the exact same fabric at a competitor for $17/yard and Simply by Ti carries it for $12/yard!! 


The next pair was made with the last yard of distressed jacquard knit that I have been hoarding from Mily Mae since last year. I keep hoping she restocks this fabric because I had no idea just how much I would like it when I bought it, and now it has been out of stock for some time. Can you tell them to restock it please?


Real pockets! 


I lowered the back pockets an inch from the pattern recommendations. Everyone has their preference for pockets, and I think this is my favorite spot. 


Pumpkin Spice Dolman

I am wearing pumpkin spice dolman tops with my pants in these photos. The white one I made 2 years ago from a sweater knit that came in a mystery box from Sincerely Rylee. I initially made it in a tunic length, wore it that entire season, and then brought it back out and wore it nonstop throughout pregnancy this last winter. This year when the cold weather arrived, I gave it new life by cutting it off to be top length, and I am thinking it is going to be in heavy rotation again this winter. It is so easy to nurse in, and I love how cozy it is!

This next one is also in a sweater knit that was gifted from my friend Aimee. I made this with a band while I was pregnant. The only modification I made on this one was that I cut the neckline just a bit lower (maybe too low, it likes to be an off the shoulder top now!). After my pregnancy, I cut the band off this one and just hemmed it at top length.


The Pumpkin Spice is a workhorse pattern for me that goes in my favorite bin. Every single sweater knit I buy almost becomes one! That is a lot coming from me because I like to buy or test every shiny pattern that comes out on the market, but I keep coming back to this old time favorite!


Made for Mermaids Hudson Hoodie


The new Made for Mermaids Hudson Hoodie comes in Men's, Women's, and Kids. I tested the kids' version on my oldest daughter. She has been wearing it non-stop lately. I used a hacci knit from Knitpop. It is so soft!


I made her a size 10 and graded to a size 12 at the hips based on measurements. If I make her another one, I will probably add more length to the torso because her torso is longer, and I would love for her to have more growing room. 


She loves the hidden kangaroo pocket! It was also really easy to do following the instructions. 


The princess seams on the pattern will make for great colorblocking and scrap busting. I always love patterns that let me use up scraps. Her only complaint on this one was that the hood was a little snug going over her head. It was fine though once she had it on. I think I will lower the neckline just a tiny amount and make a size 12 hood next time. 


Resources
  1. My pants pattern is the Patterns for Pirates SOS Pants. The girl's version of the pattern is available here. They are both on sale right now. 
  2. The cool textured knit for my black/white pants came from Simply by Ti. Sign up for their newsletter so you can grab some during the massive Black Friday sale next week.
  3. The distressed jacquard knit came from Mily Mae. Please tell them to restock more. 
  4. My top pattern is the Patterns for Pirates Pumpkin Spice Dolman. I used Sincerely Rylee sweater knit on it. They also have amazing black Friday deals that started today (50% off the site!!!).
  5. The Hudson Hoodie that Abby is wearing came from Made for Mermaids. The pattern (and the men's, women's, and bundle versions) are marked down through Saturday at midnight. They are also having a sitewide 35% off sale for Black Friday!!
  6. The fabric for Abby's hoodie is brushed hacci from Knitpop
Thanks for reading!! You may follow me on Instagram or receive updates by liking my page on Facebook. If you want to take a look into the things that inspire me, you can follow me on Pinterest. You may also follow my blog with Bloglovin.

Disclosures: I received the P4P SOS pants pattern and M4M Hudson Hoodie patterns for free as part of testing so that I could give the designer feedback to make the pattern perfect for you. The fabric links in this post may be affiliate links, which means I receive a small compensation when you purchase via my link.  





Wednesday, November 14, 2018

My Sewing Momiform Favorite: Greenstyle Brassie Joggers + A Giveaway!!


This week at Greenstyle is Favorite's Week, and today is my turn to gush all about my favorite Greenstyle pattern! For me, this was a no-brainer! The Brassie joggers of course!! It was the first pattern I tried from Greenstyle, and I still can't get enough of this pattern! 

As part of Favorites Week, the Brassie Joggers are ON SALE TODAY for 40% off their regular price too! Also, to make it even more fun, I am giving away a free Greenstyle pattern today to one of my readers, so keep reading! 


My style as a mom revolves around one word: COMFORT. If I am not comfortable in something, no matter how much I love the fabric or love the look. I just won't wear it. About 2 years ago, when I made my first pair of Brassie joggers in a French terry, I made another pair, and then another, and now I am in the double digits and have lost count. I am totally hooked. 

I have since used so many fabrics: cotton lycra, double brushed poly, athletic brushed poly, jacquard distressed knit, and sweatshirt fabric. I think the key to picking the right fabric for me is making sure it has some spandex content. Fabrics without spandex in them tend to sag in the bottom after a full day of wear. That is never flattering!


The Brassie joggers are at the top of my list of momiform items in my closet. I have Brassies that I wear at home all day with the kids, out and about when busting through my list of errands, working out at the gym, or for sleeping. They are my favorite lounge pants and my favorite put together pants. In the words of my mother-in-law: "You can dress them up, and you can dress them down!"

I wear Brassie joggers year-round. I make a stack of shorts using the shorts cutline in the summer and then wear my pants version from Fall to Spring. I blogged about the Brassie joggers a year and a half ago when I was pregnant and making shorts for the summer (you can read that here). You can also see some distressed knit Brassies that I made here.



Another awesome thing about Brassies are that they fit me in all my diverse stages: pregnant, not pregnant, postpartum, too much cake. They are just forgiving and loving. And after too much wear, they still hug me just right for pajamas. If I have been out wearing jeans or something structured, I immediately go find a pair of Brassies to wear when I get home.


For this blogpost, I made two new pairs. This olive pair is from a distressed denim COTTON LYCRA from Jumping June Textiles. I was so excited that I got this pair out of one yard! I had to cut my waistband and cuffs against the grain to make it work (which was fine because this fabric is just as stretchy against the grain as with it). This is my 4th pair in cotton lycra. As long as you aren't using thin cotton lycra, it works just fine for brassie joggers. If you live where it is really cold, though, you may want a thicker fabric like sweatshirt fleece or a heavier French terry.


The next pair that I made for this blogpost is out of a French Terry. This is a poly based one that I picked up at Wherehouse Dallas. It only has about 35% horizontal stretch and no vertical stretch so I did not use it for the cuffs and waistband. For those, I used a heathered blue cotton lycra from Made Whimsy. 


On the Brassie size chart, my waist measures a XS and my hips measure a Small. I only make a Small if I am pregnant, or if I am my regular size, I make a small if I am using fabric with only 25% stretch like sweatshirt fleece and some French terries. If my fabric has any decent stretch, I make an XS with the S crotch curve. Both of the pairs that I made for this blogpost are an XS with the S crotch curve. 

I use the low rise option in the pattern. It also comes with a midrise option. 

I cut at the 30 inch inseam cutline and remove 3 inches of length for my 27 inch inseam. I remove 1 inch at the lengthen/shorten line, a second inch 7 inches below that, and another inch 7 inches below that. I like to spread my height removal out rather than in one drastic place. 


Adjustments

I grade my calves down to the XXS, and then, starting at the capri cut line (which lands right at where the thick part of my calf ends), I draw in the next size down and grade to that. I like the calves to be a little slimmer and not baggie after I attach the cuffs. I don't grade my calves down at all if making the non-cuffed version. 

I also usually don't use the waistband included in the pattern because I don't like enclosed elastic firm against my tummy (but if I make it too loose my pants fall down!). So instead, I use a cotton lycra with a higher spandex content, supplex, or an athletic knit that has great recovery for the waistbad and cut mine at 24 inches long times 6.5 inches tall. If I really want a lounge look, I will put two buttonholes and string a drawstring through it, but the drawstring is not really functional since the waistband is doing the work of keeping my pants up. My natural waist is 26.5 and my actual waist where I wear my pants is 30 inches. I always try my waistband on first, too, because every fabric feels different and may need to be smaller or bigger. 


Lastly, I make my pockets into a pocket bag style. To do this, I print two pocket pattern pieces. On the second pocket pattern piece, I lay my pants pattern piece on top of it, and draw a line where the pants pattern piece meets, cut off the excess top, and use this pattern piece as my pocket lining/bag. Sometimes I attach that with a band f I want contrast to show at the pocket edge, or I just put the lining right sides together with the pant, stitch, and turn right side out. 


Resources
  • The Greenstyle Brassie Joggers pattern can be found HERE.
  • The green distressed denim cotton lycra is from Jumping June Textiles and can be found HERE.
  • The French Terry floral was from Wherehouse Fabric Dallas.
  • The heathered blue cotton lycra was from Made Whimsy.
  • The top I am wearing is the Sew Over It Molly Top from their Capsule Wardrobe eBook
The Exciting Part

For your chance to win a Greenstyle pattern for FREE, leave me a comment on this post. Tell me if you have a Greenstyle favorite. If you don't have one yet, tell me which pattern you want to make next. Tomorrow morning when I wake up (I am in CST), I will use random.org and select a winner!! 

Thanks for reading!! You may follow me on Instagram or receive updates by liking my page on Facebook. If you want to take a look into the things that inspire me, you can follow me on Pinterest. You may also follow my blog with Bloglovin.

Disclosures: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I receive a small compensation when you purchase via my link.