Friday, November 16, 2018

Cold Weather Sewing with the P4P SOS Skinnies and PSD for Me + a M4M Hudson Hoodie for my Daughter

Today's post is a triple whammy. I have three patterns to talk to you about today - the newly updated Patterns for Pirates SOS Skinny Pants, my well-loved Patterns for Pirates Pumpkin Spice Dolman tops, and the newly released Hudson Hoodie from Made for Mermaids.


Let's start by talking about the newly updated SOS Pants. The SOS pants pattern is designed for knit fabric and gives you all the details of real jeans with the comfort of knit fabric. They are quick to make because the fly is faux - so there is no zipper installation or button to fuss with. SOS stands for "skinny or straight" because this pant comes in a skinny or straight leg version. I made two pairs during the update testing and love the fit of both. 


Adjustments

I think the adjustments part when I am cutting out a pattern takes so long for me because I am a shorty with large calves and a deep crotch curve, BUT it is always so worth it and means that I end up with pants that I will wear over and over again and feel good in.  

Shorty. I have a 27 inch inseam, which means that I took 3 inches in length of the 30 inch inseam length on the pattern. I loved that the knee line was marked so that I was not half hazardly guessing as to where to remove length. I never try to remove more than an inch at any given place too so that it is easier to smooth back in the lines after my adjustment is made. 

Calves. All my measurements put me right at an XS EXCEPT my calves. They measured as an XL. This makes so much sense to me because one of the most uncomfortable places for skinny pants and compressive leggings on me is at my calves. This is the part where I absolutely love sewing because it is so easy to just add the extra fabric I need there by grading to the size I need. In store bought clothes, if I buy a size that fits my calves, they are falling off of my butt so most skinny pants are out of the question for me. I absolutely loved that all the measurements I needed and markings on the pattern I needed were there. After grading out to an XL at the calves, I tried my pants on to see right where the thicker part of my calf ended and slowly graded back to my normal ankle size. 

Crotch curve. I learned so much about my crotch curve in testing and was so glad that I got to be part of the update. I learned that the deep crotch curve of one of the early version in testing was AMAZING for me, and the regular crotch curve that fit everyone else so nicely was not comfortable at all for me. I have noticed on some pants/shorts that I feel a wedgie all throughout the bottom of my crotch, not really on my butt like a normal wedgie though. If I sit for too long in pants, it hurts right in my privates! Sorry if that was TMI, but try googling how to fix that! SO, previously when making bottoms with this problem, I would just scoop out the crotch curve. However, when comparing the crotch curves on this pattern between the different testing versions, I realized it was so much more than just scooping! I also need to add width to the back pattern piece as it approaches the crotch. I hope this makes sense! If not, send me an email, and I can draw out what I mean.  

This first pair that I am showing you was made out of the final version of the pattern that had the crotch curve that was not my favorite. Thank God for 1/2 inch seam allowances because I was able to fix it by using the crotch curve that works for me and add room where I needed it. 


Fabric

I used this textured nylon/spandex from Simply By Ti for this pair. I can't get over how squishy and cool this fabric feels. It is thick and perfect for pants! It is so stretchy and has great recovery. I need all the colorways now. If you order some, order extra because it is not as wide as your traditional knit. I got 2 yards and had only a small amount left after finishing these pants. 


Aren't the details so fun on this fabric! I found the exact same fabric at a competitor for $17/yard and Simply by Ti carries it for $12/yard!! 


The next pair was made with the last yard of distressed jacquard knit that I have been hoarding from Mily Mae since last year. I keep hoping she restocks this fabric because I had no idea just how much I would like it when I bought it, and now it has been out of stock for some time. Can you tell them to restock it please?


Real pockets! 


I lowered the back pockets an inch from the pattern recommendations. Everyone has their preference for pockets, and I think this is my favorite spot. 


Pumpkin Spice Dolman

I am wearing pumpkin spice dolman tops with my pants in these photos. The white one I made 2 years ago from a sweater knit that came in a mystery box from Sincerely Rylee. I initially made it in a tunic length, wore it that entire season, and then brought it back out and wore it nonstop throughout pregnancy this last winter. This year when the cold weather arrived, I gave it new life by cutting it off to be top length, and I am thinking it is going to be in heavy rotation again this winter. It is so easy to nurse in, and I love how cozy it is!

This next one is also in a sweater knit that was gifted from my friend Aimee. I made this with a band while I was pregnant. The only modification I made on this one was that I cut the neckline just a bit lower (maybe too low, it likes to be an off the shoulder top now!). After my pregnancy, I cut the band off this one and just hemmed it at top length.


The Pumpkin Spice is a workhorse pattern for me that goes in my favorite bin. Every single sweater knit I buy almost becomes one! That is a lot coming from me because I like to buy or test every shiny pattern that comes out on the market, but I keep coming back to this old time favorite!


Made for Mermaids Hudson Hoodie


The new Made for Mermaids Hudson Hoodie comes in Men's, Women's, and Kids. I tested the kids' version on my oldest daughter. She has been wearing it non-stop lately. I used a hacci knit from Knitpop. It is so soft!


I made her a size 10 and graded to a size 12 at the hips based on measurements. If I make her another one, I will probably add more length to the torso because her torso is longer, and I would love for her to have more growing room. 


She loves the hidden kangaroo pocket! It was also really easy to do following the instructions. 


The princess seams on the pattern will make for great colorblocking and scrap busting. I always love patterns that let me use up scraps. Her only complaint on this one was that the hood was a little snug going over her head. It was fine though once she had it on. I think I will lower the neckline just a tiny amount and make a size 12 hood next time. 


Resources
  1. My pants pattern is the Patterns for Pirates SOS Pants. The girl's version of the pattern is available here. They are both on sale right now. 
  2. The cool textured knit for my black/white pants came from Simply by Ti. Sign up for their newsletter so you can grab some during the massive Black Friday sale next week.
  3. The distressed jacquard knit came from Mily Mae. Please tell them to restock more. 
  4. My top pattern is the Patterns for Pirates Pumpkin Spice Dolman. I used Sincerely Rylee sweater knit on it. They also have amazing black Friday deals that started today (50% off the site!!!).
  5. The Hudson Hoodie that Abby is wearing came from Made for Mermaids. The pattern (and the men's, women's, and bundle versions) are marked down through Saturday at midnight. They are also having a sitewide 35% off sale for Black Friday!!
  6. The fabric for Abby's hoodie is brushed hacci from Knitpop
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Disclosures: I received the P4P SOS pants pattern and M4M Hudson Hoodie patterns for free as part of testing so that I could give the designer feedback to make the pattern perfect for you. The fabric links in this post may be affiliate links, which means I receive a small compensation when you purchase via my link.  




5 comments:

  1. Hi Sharon, is it possible to make a dwawing about scooping out the crotch curve? I understand part of it, but not everything. I don't know if I will receive notification if you just reply to this message.

    Greetings, Elke

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have a sketch of what I mean by scooping out the crotch curve on this blogpost I wrote this summer - http://www.sweetmamalife.com/2018/08/summer-shorts-sewing-with-greenstyle.html

      Delete
  2. Hi Sharon, I don't understand what you mean by adding width to the back piece as it approaches the crotch. Do you have a sketch of this? Thanks, Elke

    ReplyDelete
  3. Simply by Ti just did a video on December 3rd showing the same adjustments she made to her SOS pants. Here is the link to her page. https://m.facebook.com/SimplyByTi/videos

    ReplyDelete